Sunday, June 23, 2013

Color Theory Part 2: Skin Tones

Color Theory part 2: skin tones 

Colors are the most important thing when it comes to make up. Not necessarily shadow colors, but knowing tones and undertones. How they work together and against each other.

Here we are talking about skin tone and not skin color. The difference is skin color is the general reference to the overall appearance of skin such as alabaster, olive, brown...ect. Tone is actually the under laying color that creates the highlight and glow of healthy skin (yellows, reds, blues). The tone of ones' skin can be either warm or cool. Because the tone personalizes how a skin color looks on each person who has it, skin-tone is often used to express the individual look of ones skin rather than skin-color.

There are 4 different skin colors: 

Fair Skin–Light Ivory, Porcelain, Sand, Pale Peach Pink or slightly reddish (rosy) undertones
Medium Skin–Yellow, Gold, Beige, Natural, Red-Olive, Yellow-Green
Medium-Dark Skin–Honey, Cameo, Copper, Olive, Tan, Golden-Olive, Caramel
Dark Skin–Orange-Brown, Red-Brown, Walnut, Almond, Blue-Black, Ebony, Dark Chocolate
Then there are 3 different skin tones:

Cool Skintone–the skin has a little pink (rosiness) in their skin. They tend to burn easily under the sun. People who look good in silver jewelry & accessories. When they wearing a cool undertone red lipstick, they look brightened up. Most of the time, their vain is in blue color (take a look at the wrist under natural light).·

Warm Skinton–the skin has a yellowundertone or golden-olive undertone. They tend to tan easily under the sun. People who look awesome in gold jewelry & accessories than silver. When they wearing a warm (orange) undertone red lipstick, they look brightened up. Most of the time, their vain is in green color (take a look at your wrist under natural light).

Neutral Skintone–the skin has both pinkand golden undertone. They look good in both gold or silver jewelry. Most of the time, their vain is in both blue-green color.

Determining your skin tone

Wear a white shirt and look in the mirror. Be sure you are in natural or incandescent light, as yellow light or fluorescent light will reflect off your skin. See if your skin appears to have more yellow-red -- warm skin tones; or more blue-pink -- cool skin tones. The skin tone is not your skin color, it is the color that is under the skin color that reflects or is enhanced against white. Skin undertone is often shortened to simply skin tone when referring to color. There are many skin colors, but only two basic skin tones -- warm and cool. Once you know your skin tone, you can select your make-up colors.

Assess your skin color 

Decide which of the major skin color categories you fall into -- fair, medium, olive or dark. People with the same skin color do not always have the same skin tone. For example, you could be fair skinned and cool toned, or fair skinned and warm toned. You could be dark skinned with either cool or warm. It depends largely on your ethnicity and genetics. You may not be exactly 1 skin color category, and most people are in-between. Determining the nearest category will help you find a color palette more quickly.

Skin tones affect the way that make up looks on you. Here is a part of an article that I think explains it well: 

"You can think of skin as a filter. If you have cool, pink undertones, your makeup will be affected by that. Pinks will look pinker, blues will stand out more, etc. If you are a woman of color, it helps to see your skin tone as several layers of a filter, affecting the way color can be seen on your skin. Especially with bright colors—they tend to look more muted on darker skin. Using a light-colored base under a bright color will help keep the color looking true. You can use a lighter concealer or a light creamy eye shadow color—something that the shadow can stick to.

In general, I think that cool tones tend to not look as good on darker skin. The shadows can look ashy. On the other hand, warm, golden colors bring out the beautiful undertones of olive and darker skin tones. Of course, there are people who can pull off any color with incredible skill and style, but I think it’s a safe bet to stick with the colors that naturally look best on your skin.

The reason a rich purple looks so good on darker skin is because it is warm and vibrant, so the color stands out, but is still flattering with the skintone.  Cool violets look beautiful on paler skin tones because you get the vibrancy of the purple without the intensity. And the cool tones of a pale lavender flatter the pink/blue undertones of pale skin.

Red-orange lipsticks look great on women with olive skin because of the warmth of the color, where blue-reds look incredibly dramatic and flattering on paler women, because of the cooler color of their skin."

Knowing color really helps when it comes to conceler. You want to use complementary colors. So if you have purple under your eyes, like I do, then use a yellow conceler. Red splotches? Use a green concerler. 

Make-up Artist Tips on Concealer & Color Correcting:

When you mix complimentary colors together (eg. mix red and green), they will combine to produce a neutral gray. This theory is best applied for Under-Eye Concealer Application–if someone has a purple under-eye that you want to conceal, for the best result, use a concealer with yellow undertone, OR use a yellow color corrector to neutralize the purple under-eye first, then use a concealer on top to match the person’s natural skintone.

The same theory works for people who have lots of dark blue under-eye color (which is often found in darker, brownish skintone), it is best to use an orange color corrector (or a mix between orange & ochre colors) first to neutralize the dark blue under-eye first, and then use a concealer on top to match the person’s natural skintone.

Using color correcting in the under-eye area effectively with the proper method & color, it will bring a nice radiant & lifting effect on the make-up look!


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